Jeff’s RV-12 Builder’s Log

Just another RV builder’s weblog

Section 14 – Rear Spar, Stub Spar, Hinge Brackets

8/23/08  Deburred and prepped the Stub Spar Doublers and the Stub Spar Channel.  Practiced countersinking on some scrap and went for the gusto.  Countersunk all of the flange holes on the Stub Spar Channel, as well as the 100′ countersink on both sides of each Stub Spar Assembly.  No riveting done yet, as I will prep and countersink all of the Section 14 parts and then prime everything all at once.  Time: 2hrs

8/24/08  Deburred and prepped the Hinge Bracket Assembly, Hinge Assembly, and Tip Attach Angle Separation parts from page 14-02.  Scotch-Brited out a couple of deeper scratches that occured during shipping.  Did not get to the counter-sinking on the Hinge Assembly, as it was getting late.  I’d hate to have the neighbors calling the police on me during my first week…

8/26/08  Deburred and prepped 1207B spar doublers.  Total time: 15 happy minutes.

8/27/08  Countersunk the hinge brackets.  Pulled out the rear spars and began prep.  30mins.

8/28/08  Took the night off to watch the acceptance speech from the next President of the United States of America.  Go Barak!

8/30/08  Deburred, cleaned, etched, and alodined all of the Section 14 parts but for the rear spars.  You read that right…alodined.  I figured that I was already etching, so alodining would add little time, no weight, and significant anti-corrosion insurance.  Working with the stuff is annoying, and disposing of it is worse.  I’m sure it’s worth the extra hassle.  I inspected each piece and sanded out a few scratches with 400 wet and then 600 wet sandpaper.  Everything seems nice and smooth. 2hrs

8/31/08  Primed everything but the Stub Spars and the Rear Spars.  Primer came out brilliantly.  I laid down a nice thin layer which covers the part but still lets the Sharpie marks show through.  I will re-do the Stub Spars and do the Rear Spars tomorrow.  My alodine procedure for the Stub Spar didn’t take nearly as well as for the rest of the parts (the color ranged from very light gold to bare aluminum).  I got some input from other builders and I think that I got a handle on it. 1hr

9/8/08  Riveted the Hinge Bracket Assemblies and Hinge Assemblies together.  All of the rivets set quite well, but for the double counter-sunk rivets on the two Hinge Assemblies.  The shop heads all stick out a small amount, which seems to be a common problem.  I’m going to wait and see what sorts of clearances are needed and shave them down later, if necessary.  I noticed that the outside tip of the Hinge Assembly spread slightly when the counter-sunk rivets were squeezed into place.  I will call Van’s tomorrow and verify that everything is okey-dokey.  This seems to be a known issue, and one that doesn’t raise any serious concerns.  The primer held up very well to the riveting, just needing a quick clean with soapy water.  I will shoot just a tad more primer on the edges now that everything is joined up.  I also assembled a half-assed alodine “pool” with some scrap wood.  The pool is plenty big enough to handle the largest ribs, and will even take the stub spars.  I’ll do a test run with the stub spars tomorrow night before moving onto the rib bonanza in Section 15.  The rear spars will be getting a light coat of primer, but will not be alodined.  I just can’t bring myself to alodine something quite that big.  I simply don’t have the setup to handle it, and I envision a huge, ugly Superfund site as the inevitable outcome.

9/9/08  Stub spars were successfully prepped, alodined, and primed.  New prep procedure is to rub  the piece with a Scotchbrite pad (maroon) soaked in thinner to remove the oils, etc, then wash with Dawn-water, rinse, acid-etch for one minute, rinse, then alodine while still wet.  Worked like a charm.  The rear spars were prepped and left to dry before priming tomorrow.  Should finish Section 14 this week.

9/10/08  Checked the primer on the stub spars.  All looks good.  Primed the rear spars.  I’m trying to balance between a thin coat and an inadequate coat.  I ended up shooting a fog coat and a top coat (of primer, that is).  I’ll check tomorrow for coverage and add one more thin layer if necessary.  Thus far, I’ve used well under half of a quart of primer, including practice and overspray.  Sent off an email and phots regarding the Hinge Assembly to Van’s.  Started on Section 15.

9/13/08  Shot one more thin primer layer on the rear spars and they look great.  Per Van’s, the Hinge Assembly is A-OK.  Will finish the Section 14 riveting within the next few days.

9/23/08  Finished this section today!  All riveting has been done per the plans, and all rivets appear to be within spec.  More pix soon.

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August 24, 2008 - Posted by | Wing Kit

2 Comments »

  1. I’m not yet a builder, but hope to be. Yours is the first RV-12 website I’ve visited to mention priming parts. Are the rest just ignoring instructions, or are instruction lacking?

    I will have to do some research on etching, alodining, and priming.

    Thank you for a very useful and well done web site.

    Comment by John Innes | December 9, 2008 | Reply

    • Here’s a long-delayed reply to this question. Perhaps it will help others. The instructions are intentionally vague. Van’s takes the position that Alclad parts have built-in corrosion protection. However, if the builder decides that additional protection is needed, they recommend several primers that have worked well in the past. Napa 7220 is one of those. In my experience, I have seen Alclad skins get the beginnings of surface corrosion after relatively minimal exposure to water and/or contaminants if that exposure is not cleaned up promptly. Interestingly, the corrosion seems to start at edges or punched/drilled holes…where the alloy aluminum is exposed to the outside air. Alclad, then, may be great, but your edges aren’t Alclad, are they? A second or third corrosion inhibitor, whether it is alodining, priming, Corrosion X, etc, seemed to be a good idea to me. While I don’t live in a high salt environment, SoCal is known for a high concentration of particulates and acid rain. In my opinion, prevention is better than cure.

      As a side note, I have also seen examples of filiform corrosion forming on skins where the factory adhesive residue and blue “2024″ ink printing is not washed off. So once those plastic covers are removed, bust out the MEK or Simple Green (Purple) or what-have-you and clean the gunk off.

      Comment by lawspud | January 12, 2010 | Reply


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