Hints, Tips, and Notes

1.  The W1210B-L doubler is referred to in my plans (very early version), for whatever reason, as W1206B-L.  Just a typo.  No big deal, but it threw me for just a second.

2.  The instructions and diagram for match-drilling the same W1210B-L doubler do not indicate which end goes up.  Since the doubler is CAD-drilled from the factory, it’s entirely possible that it doesn’t matter if you put the right or wrong side up for drilling.  However, a look at the later plans shows that the extra hole in the doubler (there’s only one hole that’s a different size) goes towards the bottom.

3.  A side note about separating the joined pieces of 2024-T3 aluminum:  Just use the band saw.  I have no doubt that Wiss snips or a Demel or some tool I’ve never heard of work fine, but the band saw kicks butt.  I just have a wood band in mine, and it laughed at the soft aluminum.  I should add that I have since upgraded to a metal-cutting blade on my band saw.  It makes nicer cuts in the aluminum, unsurprisingly.  The cuts were much easier to clean up and debur.  If you can’t find a blade at your local Home Despot, eBay is a quick and easy source for that sort of thing.

4.  When you screw up a pulled rivet, the removal procedure is a little different than for a driven rivet.  The steel stem in the pulled rivet will deflect the drill bit, which could lead to holes, marrs, or scratches on your work.  Instead, use a spring-loaded marker punch to punch out the stem prior to drilling.  Simply buy a cheap punch and use your grinder to make it fit the hole in the end of the pulled rivet.  Insert tip and punch until it pops out.  Then drill with a bit that just fits through the hole in the part.  Go very slowly and the rivet head will come off, at which point the rivet will pop out.  There is no need to even go through the hole in the part with the drill, which could enlarge or elongate the hole.

Pulled Rivet Mandrel Punch

Mandrel Punch in action

5.  First, get the P26A close-in riveter sold by Avery.  Second, put a layer of duct tape on the nose of the thing to keep it from marring the finish.  Third, get used to spinach, ’cause here come your Popeye forearms…

6.  I hate to be a shill for Avery Tools, but I must admit that I like their tools, I like their prices, I like their shipping, and I like that it is a family organization.  The fact that they support vansairforce.net is just gravy.  Which brings me to my latest Avery plug: I HIGHLY recommend the Avery Tools fluting pliers.  I had my doubts, but it worked like a charm. They flute like nobody’s business.

7  Also, please take a few minutes to watch Alan Gilmore’s fluting video.  Alan, you’re a dork!  But a wonderful, generous, and extremely helpful dork, and we love you for helping us out (well, at least I do).  Alan’s process and insight was unbelievably helpful in vaulting up the learning curve of the fluting process.  By the last nose rib, I had my own, slightly different technique.  But Alan’s recommendations form the core of my technique, and kept me from making any major (or even minor) mistakes as I learned.  Brilliant!  Just take your time, do not over-crimp, do both sides and then double check the whole.  And listen to Alan.

8.  I plunked down a few bucks for the Avery tool for pulling obstructed blind rivets, which was based on Jim Cone’s design.  It’s well made and works like a charm.  The tool will help you apply a little force when the rivet doesn’t just slide right into the pre-drilled hole, which is an added bonus.  Could I have made something that would have worked?  I sure hope so…I mean, I’m building a plane for god’s sake.  But this was a great purchase and I’m happy with the tool.

9.  Rust.  Some of my clecos rusted after their container was accidentally filled with water.  All was not lost, though.  Enter Evapo-Rust.  Great product.  Works like a charm.  Doesn’t attack aluminum.  Win-win.  My clecos were 100% restored to functionality.